Hiking the High Pyrenees at Vallter 2000.

The high summer with scorching temperatures and packed beaches is over and Autumn has started. Time to relax, kick back and enjoy some of the things that fantastic Catalunya has to offer. For me, September is the Goldilocks month and everything is just about perfect. The sea is still warm, the beaches are more or less empty, you have a choice of tables in the restaurants and the kids have gone back to school. I love September.... September signals the start of the outdoors lifestyle without the incessant heat of July and August and for the next 4 months or so, the whole of Catalunya becomes a playground for hiking and biking, culminating in the skiing season which kicks off in late December.

This week, we went to the High Pyrenees and the ski resort at Vallter 2000. At an altitude of 2881 mts, the peak of Bastiments offers cracking views of the Pyrenees, France, Catalunya and in the distance, the Mediterranean Sea.

A Panoramic view from the top of the mountain, the peak at Bastiments.

From Casa Cal Domino, it's 40 minutes by car to the north of Girona, then another hour past the medieval village of Besalu and the pristine lake at Banyoles until we reach a fantastic little pastry shop situated in the village of Llaners. Llaners sits at the base of the mountain below the ski resort of Vallter 2000 and there they sell fresh warm petit pain au chocolate / Napolitanas. Deliciously buttery croissants with a generous filling of chocolate. Mmmmm just the thing to stretch the legs and get ready for the days hiking.

The start of the hike.

"The tree"

Crossing the river Ter.

We park the car on the road just below the ski resort's main car park and head up to the refuge half way to the peak at Bastiments. The path winds its way through pine forest by the river Ter which at this stage is just a small mountain stream trickling its way down the mountainside to become one of the biggest rivers in Catalunya on its 208 km trek to the town of Estartit and the Mediterranean Sea.

Approaching the tree line.

The sign post by the refuge.

The refuge at Ulldeter.

Today, the air is clear and temperatures hover around 15ºC. Perfect hiking weather. After about an hour, we start to reach the tree line, the point at which the forest gives way to mountain proper and to mark the transition, there is the Refuge at d'Ulldeter at an altitude of 2200 mts (http://www.ulldeter.net/en/). Here, they serve hot and cold drinks, snacks and hot meals. There is a warm, rustic wooden-panelled dining area with long trestle tables and benches where everyone sits down together for communal meals. Outside, you'll find a grassy area to sit and relax in the sunshine with a few benches and boulders to sit on. There's a font to replenish water bottles and good views of the mountain and the hike to come.

The top of the Vallter Valley just below the peak at Bastiments.

After leaving the refuge, the climb begins and you follow what would be one of the the ski pistes to the top of the Vallter Valley. This area is a delight to walk through. It's full of alpine flowers, small streams with fresh ice-cold water. If you're lucky, you'll see families of sure-footed mountain goats tearing along the escarpments at breakneck speed and almost certainly will hear the warning cries of the Marmots that thrive here at Vallter. In just 40 minutes from leaving the Refuge, you'll find yourself at the top of the Vallter Valley with the impressive mountain peak of Bastiments in front of you.

Marmot.

Here the climb starts for real and the path zig-zags its way to the very top where the cool mountain air and exquisite views await. Bring a picnic, find a rock, sit yourself down, breath and relax..... What is it about hikers ? Everyone is in a good mood, chatty, sociable and friendly. The minimum that you'll get all day is a cheery, "Bon dia" (good day) or show willing to practice your Spanish or Catalan and you'll find many locals happy to chat to and maybe be keen to improve their English too. This is what it is all about.... a well earned respite from modern life. Clean fresh air and gorgeous views.... food for the soul.

The top of the mountain and my picnic spot for the day.

Marta and Casi waiting for me.

The peak at Bastiments.

I can stay up here for ever... but eventually, the rock that I'm sitting on becomes just a little bit too uncomfortable, the picnic is but a fond memory and a full belly and the descent back down the mountain beckons. It's not all over though. The views on the way down are just awesome. I've always said to friends that come here that there is something special about Catalunya.... It's the light. Some of the worlds greatest painters have made a pilgrimage to Catalunya to capture the light here and today, with my camera, I am spoilt for good views with the most incredible "blue" that you could imagine.

"Blue"

Half way down we stop for a coffee and a sandwich at the refuge. As usual, the same cheery bonhomie seems to infect everyone here and we get chatting to a young couple from Sweden and their 8 month old daughter. They are hiking the GR11 Pyrenean trail from Andorra to Setcases, a small village just below Vallter. Their trek is almost over and they have been wild camping for over a week. What a fantastic adventure for them, but with an 8 month old.....Now that is brave !

#caldomino #girona #catalunya #pyrenees #vallter #ulldeter #bastiments

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About me… I have lived in Calonge (province of Girona) on the Costa Brava since 2003 after retiring as a pilot from the british Royal Air Force. My passions are hiking, biking, skiing, photography and discovering and sharing the hidden cultural treasures of this beautiful country. My day job entails managing a luxury self-catering rental Villa, Casa Cal Domino, and in my search for new and interesting things to do for my clients whilst they are here on holiday, I have been genuinely overawed by the beauty and diversity of this land. I’m not leaving any time soon. I love it here and I hope to inspire you to come and discover this wonderful country for yourself.