Monday 29 June 2015

The Cami de Ronda - Coastal Path between Palamós and Calella de Palafrugell

a typical Mallorquin-style fishing boat

The Coastal Paths of Catalunya, called the Caminos de Ronda in Catalan, cover the entire stretch of the Costa Brava from the French border in the north to the town of Blanes, (known as the Gateway to the Costa Brava) in the south. This particular section of the cami de ronda from Palamós to Calella de Palafrugell, is one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline here in Catalunya and if you only do one walk on your holidays, this is definitely the one to do. From the bigger beaches equipped with parking and chiringuitos (beach bars), life-guards and services to small hidden bays (Calas) only accessible by boat, the cami de ronda winds its way along small well marked paths (senderos) along this rugged coastline that is synonymous with the Costa Brava. 

The main beach at La Fosca near Palamós

Our route today took us from a quiet urbanisation north of the Palamós marina where there is nearly always plenty of on road parking away from the hustle and bustle of the the beach at La Fosca. The map and technical details of the walk can be found on Strava at the bottom of this post. From our parking spot, you'll find a signpost for the Cami de Ronda that takes you into shaded pine and oak woods and a track that climbs a small hill (top left in the picture above) that separates Palamós and the little village of La Fosca. This short track takes about 20 minutes to walk and soon you start to descend into La Fosca and our first stop for the day in a chiringuito for coffee and breakfast. We were joined today by friends from our Meetup group (Costa Brava Hiking and Biking Group), a great way to see Catalunya in a social setting with like minded people. We alternate between hikes and mountain bike trails every two weeks all over Catalunya throughout the year. It is free to join and we charge a nominal €5. fee for each excursion to cover running costs of the Meetup page. Details can be found below...

The beach at la Fosca is perfect for families with small children. Unlike some of the beaches on the Costa Brava where the beach shelves off steeply into the sea, La Fosca forms a sheltered bay with a wide shallow fine sandy beach with warm water and few waves. La Fosca has full time life-guards, toilet facilities, showers and a multitude of bars and cafes. We highly recommend the Hostal at La Fosca, located right on the beach front in the middle of the promenade and serves mid-priced meals throughout the year. Their salads are excellent, the staff are friendly and polite and we have never had a bad meal there.
The track takes you along the promenade, following the beach to the south end of the village where you have a small climb up to the old ruined Castle of Sant Esteve de Mar.

This part of the cami de ronda is well maintained and paved with steps and crazy paving taking you around the coastline between the front-line villas and apartments to the start of the protected green space  that makes up the majority of the walk towards Calella de Palafrugell. Once into the woods on the other side of La Fosca, you soon come to one of the jewels of the Costa Brava, the tiny fishing village of S'Alguer. These small fishing huts are protected from further developement (as is the entire stretch of coastline between La Fosca and Calella). There is no road access to s'Alguer and water is still drawn from a well in the centre. Today, it is used as a weekend retreat for local families and has escaped the ravages of mass tourism. Continuing along the coast on the trail, after another 10 minutes we come to the beach of Castell.
Platja Castell.
Platja Castell is one of our favourite beaches with fine sand, services, 2 chiringuitos serving hot food and cold drinks, a life-guard and kayack rentals throughout the summer months from June to September. Access to Platja Castell if either by foot from La Fosca via the cami de ronda, or by car exiting the C31 at junction after the Palamós / La Fosca junction. During the summer, the Ajuntamineto de Palamós organises parking in a local field for a small daily fee of €5. To the north of the beach on a small wooded hill, there is a peninsula that houses the Castell Iberian Ruins dating back to the bronze age. They are free to enter and walk around and offer excellent views over the bay. Just on the other side of the promontory, lies the little cala of La Foradada de Castlel with a natural arch that you can swim through. We recommend hiring a kayak for the day and exploring this beautiful part of the coastline from the water. 
La Foradada
Kayaking



Once leaving La Foradada, we climb to the top of the Cap Roig hills and leave the wide touristy beaches for the little bays that are not accessible by car and you'll not find them on the tourist maps either. The Cap Roig hills take us through predominantly pine and oak forests along the cliff tops which offer glimpses of hidden bays and sometimes wide sweeping panoramic views of the rugged Costa Brava coastline. The path is generally shady and well marked, but there are no springs or fonts between platja Castlell and Calaella de Palafrugell and you need to bring plenty of water with you, especially today when the temperatures rose to over 30ºC. Today was very hot and from now until October, we will be hiking the interior of Catalunya, up in the low Pyrenees and high mountains to escape the heat of the summer. Today though, we chose this route specifically for the availability of drinks in the little bars and chiringuitos along the way. A walk of about 30 minutes through the woods will bring you back down to the coastline and the little bays of Cala Canyers and Cala Corbs.
The cami de ronda then follows the coastline to one of the gems of the Costa Brava, Cala Estreta.
Cala Estreta
There is a small fisherman's hut at Cala Estreta. It is open to the public and is very well equipped with tables, chairs, cooking utensils etc. During the summer it is always open, but out of season you can get the keys from the Ajuntamiento. It is somewhat refreshing to see that there is no theft here and that people use the facilities that are maintained by the locals with respect. The general rule is that you clean up after yourself, replace what you use and that you leave the hut in a better condition than when you found it in. Sometimes difficult as it is very well maintained !

Cala El Golfet
After a very refreshing swim at Cala Estreta, we following the coastline until a short but steep climb back into the forest and skirt the private grounds of the botanical gardens at Cap Roig until we start our descent into Calella de Palafrugell and a very welcome beer and lunch. Calella de Palafrugell has been voted many times as the Costa Brava's most beautiful village. It is certainly very photogenic and there are dozens of restaurants to choose from. As it was lunchtime, we initially made our way to Can Gelpi, a restaurant on the beach front and at first, the staff were happy to accommodate our group. However, as only half wanted a full meal with the rest opting for drinks and snacks., the owner refused to serve any of us unless we all opted for a full meal. It's not the first time that we have had problems here and we all thought that the owner was quite rude... Such a shame as it was a good place to eat a few years ago. We recommend that you find another restaurant to have lunch.....
The approach to Calella de Palafrugell courtesy of Marie, one of our meetup guests. Thanks Marie !
So, after being refused a table in Can Gelpi, we made our way to the oldest established restaurant on the beach front at Calella de Palafrugell, "Les Voltes". Here, they were very busy as usual, but they were very helpful, friendly, and took the time to make us up a table outside in the shade (much needed in the summer). They were very quick in bringing drinks while we waited for the menus and in the end, the a la carte was so good that we all decided to eat something anyway ! Nice cold beer, reasonable prices, excellent food and good company. What better way to end the first part of the hike and we highly recommend them. 
Calella de Palafrugell
After lunch we had a much needed swim and siesta on the beach and then started the hike back to Palamós. You can elect to make the hike back shorter if you wish, as once you pass the Cap Roig Botanical Gardens, the trail splits into two and you have the option of cutting directly through the forest to La Fosca. All in all today, a hike of about 18km.... It was very hot, but then again, that's why cold beer was invented. A lovely day out on the Cami de Ronda and thanks to my Meetup group for the excellent company :)


#caldomino #costabrava #catalunya #camideronda #coastalpath #mediterranean

Facebook     500px     Flicker

About me… I have lived in Calonge (province of Girona) on the Costa Brava since 2003 after retiring as a pilot from the british Royal Air Force. My passions are hiking, biking, skiing, photography and discovering and sharing the hidden cultural treasures of this beautiful country. My day job entails managing a luxury self-catering rental Villa, Casa Cal Domino, and in my search for new and interesting things to do for my clients whilst they are here on holiday, I have been genuinely overawed by the beauty and diversity of this land. I’m not leaving any time soon. I love it here and I hope to inspire you to come and discover this wonderful country for yourself.

Monday 22 June 2015

A week in the life of Cal Domino

The Ski resort of Vallter and the mountain El Gra de Fajol on the left
Poor Casi..... Our Golden Retriever is certainly a little tender from yesterdays activities ! Bless..... Last night, I had to carry "La Casi" outside to her bed as she was having none of the usual bedtime "getting up and going out on her own" routine. It's amazing how floppy and uncooperative she can be :)
It was the weekend and we decided to get up early and jump in the car for a hike in the Catalan high Pyrenees. After meeting up with friends in Olot and a breakfast of the most fantastic fresh, warm, chocolate croissants and coffee,  we headed up towards the winter ski resort at Vallter, parked the cars and then followed the mountain stream "el torrent de l’Orri" all the way up to El Gra de Fajol.
At the top (Col de la Geganta). From right to left, the summits of Bastiments, and pic de l'Infern
I do feel for her, after 9 years or so, she still hasn't figured out that she can't run around all day and carry on as usual afterwards without consequences..... For me, the route was also not without it's impediments.... After 2 hours or so, my calzoncillos suffered a structural elastic failure and I had no option but to complete the walk, another 4 hours or so, either au natural or with what I can only describe as a badly fitting thong :) Luckily, a very nice picnic of sandwiches and cool beer sat on the top of the world with good company more than made up for it.


The views from the high Pyrenees in Summer are stunning and highly recommended. There are routes for all levels of fitness and experience, clear cool mountain streams and fresh air.  Yesterday we were lucky enough to come across a few Marmots, deer and mountain goats along with the normal carpet of alpine flora. There are a multitude of companies offering guided and self-guided walks from days trips to more adventurous long distance hikes from refuge to refuge. During the summer months, it's our preferred activity at the weekends.















We were joined by local teams competing in a mountain race and were even offered some very welcome refreshments of oranges and bananas by the race organisers. One of the things that I love about this country is the camaraderie and politeness of the people here. Not one of the runners passing by failed to offer us a cheery "Bon Dia". You've got to love Catalunya :)


Last week though was mainly a cycling week. 

The Panta Susqueda
Last weekend I was joined on a fantastic mountain bike ride through the low Pyrenees in the county of Osor along the banks of the river Ter from the Panta de Susqueda to the Panta de Sau. A relatively flat trail of 45km following the old road that linked the villages of Susqueda and Sau before the valley was flooded. The two man-made reservoirs hold about 390 hm³ of water and help to generate electricity for the region. Unfortunately for us, the bad weather forecast was 6 hours early and we were caught out mid way in the most terrific thunderstorm. We pressed ourselves against the cliff face of the trail as my cycling helmet took a barrage from the hail stones and pretty soon, the rainwater began to cascade down the cliff face and down my back. I was wetter than a fish. After the somewhat biblical weather, we decided to carry on regardless and continued along the trail swapping smiles and laughs with other drenched cyclists until we stopped off for a lunch at the hotel La Riba in Sau for a very welcome bocadilllo de Jamon and a beer or two. We enjoyed ourselves so much that I have already augmented the route a tad to incorporate the beautiful village of Rupit, situated high on the cliffs overlooking the water. Next time though, we will take a closer look at the weather forecast !
Panta de Susqueda
More Cycling !

On Thursday, we decided to cycle the Via Verde from Olot to Calonge. The Via Verde, (literally Green Way) follows the old steam train narrow gauge railway from the low Pyrenees all the way to the coast. Our part of the trail that day was about 126km all-in-all and winds its way through some of the most beautiful scenery in Catalunya. From the town of Olot in the low Pyrenees, through the extinct volcanoes of the Garroxta National park and the sleepy medieval villages of the Bas Valley all the way to Girona and onwards to St Feliu de Guixols on the Mediterranean Coast.
The Cafe La Casilla located near Sant Esteve d'en Bas, perfect for a beer.
There are three main routes de Carilet here in Catalunya. The first from Olot to Girona, then from Girona to St Feliu de Guixols and then a small side spur along the coast from Palamós to Palafrugell. The railways  suffered immensely during the Spanish Civil War and their maintenance became too much for a post war government to sustain. They were finally closed in the mid 60's and remained abandoned until the mid 80's when piece by piece they were brought back to life as through ways for cyclists and hikers. These greenways have become increasing popular with locals as an environmentally friendly way to get around and recently have become a focus for the Catalan Tourist Board as a destination for the increasingly popular cycling holidays. Well marked, well maintained and utterly enjoyable cycling. As you approach the main hubs, Girona for example, the greenway remains well marked and you are guided through the city centre on dedicated cycle lanes.



















For me, one of the best things about these greenways is that they naturally link village to village and restaurant to restaurant so you are totally spoiled with places to stop and eat or just sit and admire the view with a drink and the vast majority of our route, some 90km or so was down hill !

Facebook     500px     Flicker

About me… I have lived in Calonge (province of Girona) on the Costa Brava since 2003 after retiring as a pilot from the british Royal Air Force. My passions are hiking, biking, skiing, photography and discovering and sharing the hidden cultural treasures of this beautiful country. My day job entails managing a luxury self-catering rental Villa, Casa Cal Domino, and in my search for new and interesting things to do for my clients whilst they are here on holiday, I have been genuinely overawed by the beauty and diversity of this land. I’m not leaving any time soon. I love it here and I hope to inspire you to come and discover this wonderful country for yourself.


#caldomino #costabrava #pyrenees #vallter #cycling

Friday 19 June 2015

Upcoming events 28th June 2015.



Join us for a full day guided hike along the Cami de Ronda, stopping off for lunch and a swim in Calella de Palafrugell. Reserve your place through our Meetup page below:

http://www.meetup.com/Costa-Brava-Girona-Hiking-Biking-Group/events/222849031/


Sunday 7 June 2015

Walking the High Pyrenees - Vallter 2000



Set in the high Pyrenees on the Spanish side of the French and Catalan border and framed by the peaks Bastiments (2881 mts), Gra de fajol (2714 mts) and Pic de la dona (2702 mts), Vallter is a small and friendly ski resort in the winter months and is just 2 hours away from the Villa, door-to-door.

Due to it's elevated position and good coverage of snow canons, it has a skiable range of 1,910 to 2,535 metres (6,266 to 8,317 ft) with 12 runs and 11 lifts and is a good choice if you're looking for a quiet resort to just go skiing for the day. http://www.vallter2000.cat

Today though, we are hiking from the base of the ski resort to the top of Bastiments.  As the name suggests, Vallter - Vall (Valley) / Ter (River Ter) - is also the source of the River Ter which flows from the Pyrenees some 208 kms to the the Mediterranean Sea at Estartit. During the Summer and Autumn months, it also becomes a wonderful place to hike the Pyrenees and escape the heat of the coast and Catalan lowlands.

The first part of this hike is a very easy walk through the pine forests and along the river to the refuge at d'Ulldeter where you can get a cold beer and a menu del dia for €12.00.  The refuge at Ulldeter is also the starting point of the Ruta de Ter, a designated hiking route that follows the river across 5 Catalan counties all the way to the seaside town of Estartit where it empties into the Mediterranean Sea. http://www.rutadelter.cat



Hiking the high Pyrenees is not for the faint-hearted ! The route today was relatively easy, even for vertigo sufferers such as myself, but as always when walking in the mountains, you need to have some basic knowledge / common sense and look at the weather forecast carefully before you decide to venture out onto the mountain. Today in the morning, the weather was perfect ! We each had basic hiking kit, some carried poles, water and a picnic for the top of the mountain :)

Just above the tree line heading up to Bastiments
The hike today took just under 3 hours with an hour for lunch at Bastiments. The vertical climb was just under 1000 mts (3,000 ft) and apart from it being a little steep towards the top, was suitable for walkers of all levels and moderate fitness.
Walking along the ridge between peaks
At the top of Bastiments, the views were stunning ! From here you can see the whole southern range of the Pyrenees stretching into France and north towards Andorra. To the south, the iconic mountain of Canigou and the coastal range descending down to the Mediterranean sea.
360º Panorama from the top of Bastiments
The group from Olot and "La Casi" - Our Golden Retriever


Facebook     500px     Flicker

About me… I have lived in Calonge (province of Girona) on the Costa Brava since 2003 after retiring as a pilot from the british Royal Air Force. My passions are hiking, biking, skiing, photography and discovering and sharing the hidden cultural treasures of this beautiful country. My day job entails managing a luxury self-catering rental Villa, Casa Cal Domino, and in my search for new and interesting things to do for my clients whilst they are here on holiday, I have been genuinely overawed by the beauty and diversity of this land. I’m not leaving any time soon. I love it here and I hope to inspire you to come and discover this wonderful country for yourself.