Saturday 23 January 2021

The Collsacabra mountains - Panta de Sau


About an hour to the north of Cal Domino, you'll find the Collsacabra mountain range, located between the Pre-littoral and Transversal Catalan mountains. Basically, part of the low Pyrenees and with an average altitude of about 1100 Mts (3600ft), it rarely gets snow in the winter and makes for comfortable hiking (and great mountain biking) for most of the year with stunning views.

This area is protected under the 1992 Catalan legislation "protection plan for spaces of natural interest" and forms an area of about 142km2. It is our preferred are for hiking from October to April but a little too warm in mid-summer when we prefer to hike the cooler high Pyrenees up at 2000 Mts and above.

Todays hike takes us from the reservoir, up the cliff face to the plateau on top next to the chocolate-box village of Tavertet and back. There are three clear paths up the "cingles" (cliffs in Catalan). One is accessible by most, even if it does get a little daunting in places, the other two are quite vertical and I would class them as moderate to extreme with some climbing equipment required.

Todays trail takes you through oak forests and woodland paths. It is pretty vertical in places and not suitable for anyone with severe vertigo, and although it can look a little scary sometimes, you're never really close to the edge.

Once you get to the top, the views are breathtaking. The lake below is a man-made reservoir which has flooded the old village Sant Romà de Sau. You can just about see the top of the church spire in this picture and during severe draughts, when the water level drops significantly, you can walk around what is left if the village. The village was fist mentioned in the 9th century and prospered for over a thousand years until the Sau valley was flooded in the 1960's. The residents were forced to leave and relocated in the new village of Sau.

This is a great spot to have a rest and a bite to eat and drink. There is a bench here and you really can't beat the view.

At the waters edge and a panoramic view of the "Cingles de Tavertet." You can easily do this hike in a day from Cal Domino and once back home, take a swim in the heated pool, have a sauna or simply relax in the Jacuzzi. A perfect end to a perfect day....



Tuesday 14 November 2017

The Best Dozen Beaches on the Costa Brava

Casa Cal Domino sits on a small hill overlooking the 10th Century castle and the medieval village of Calonge, just 3 km from the Costa Brava and nestled in the Gavarres National Park (a 38,000 Ha greenspace between the coast and Girona). It's a perfect location form summer beach holidays on the Mediterranean Sea and here's our top dozen recommendations of fantastic local beaches to go and soak up the sun.

Stunning beaches close private rental villa

hiking holidays from Spanish rental villa with pool


walking holidays Spanish self catering villa with pool


activity holidays from 4 bedroom villa with pool


skinny dipping close to self catering rental villa with pool


blue flagged beach 3.5 km from private villa with pool

 
quiet beaches close to self catering villa with heated pool

 
Skinny dipping in spain close to Spanish rental villa


child friendly beaches in spain close to rental villa and pool


unspoilt beaches close to rental villa with pool

 
hikes close to private self catering villa and pool

 
If you wish to learn more about hiking, biking and adventures on the Costa Brava throughout the year, please contact me through our Facebook page, our website below or our email address caldomino@gmail.com
About me… I have lived in Calonge (province of Girona) on the Costa Brava since 2003 after retiring as a pilot from the british Royal Air Force. My passions are hiking, biking, skiing, photography and discovering and sharing the hidden cultural treasures of this beautiful country. My day job entails managing a luxury self-catering rental Villa, Casa Cal Domino, and in my search for new and interesting things to do for my clients whilst they are here on holiday, I have been genuinely overawed by the beauty and diversity of this land. I’m not leaving any time soon. I love it here and I hope to inspire you to come and discover this wonderful country for yourself.

Saturday 29 October 2016

Autumn Colours and Santa Fe de Montseny National Park

The Montseny Massif and the peak of Les Agudes
The Montseny Massif is part of the Catalan Pre-Coastal range of mountains. They are the highest Catalan mountains south of the Pyrenees and dominate the plains of Girona. The highest peaks are Turó de l'Home (1,712 mts), Les Agudes (1,703 mts), El Matagalls (1,617 mts) and Puig Drau (1,314 mts).

 

Montseny is a protected area and UNESCO declared the mountains a biosphere reserve in 1978. The Catalan Government declared the area a National Park in 1987.


These mountains are mainly covered by Beech and Chestnut giving way to pine as you climb and then to bare rock at the very top. At this time of year from mid October to mid November, the leaves are changing colour and the mountains become a popular destination for day trips with the locals and visitors taking advantage of the usual autumnal weather for hiking and biking. We advise to avoid the Park during the weekends when it gets busy. During the week, there will be people around, but for the most part, you will not have problems parking, getting a meal and you will not meet many on the trails. As usual, we suggest that you give people a "Bon dia" (good day) as you pass. More often than not, you will meet new friends and end up chatting for a while :)

Local children from Girona on a school trip.


From the Villa, head towards Girona and take the AP7 south towards Barcelona. Exit at St Celony de Montseny and follow the signs through the town for the National Park and Santa Fe de Montseny. The road winds its way through the mountains for about 20 minutes until you reach the parking area. 


 

A walk through the woods towards the reservoir at Santa Fe will take about 20 minutes or so and is suitable for small children to get to know the natural surroundings, pick chestnuts and explore the area full of pre-historic Menhirs. For those more adventurous, there is a circular path to the peaks of Les Agudes and Turó de l'Home which will take you the full day and is suitable for any age group that can tackle a 3 hour (each way) hike. The hike to the tops of the mountains is relatively easy and the views from the top are outstanding. Pack a picnic.....

See our blog http://caldominosworld.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/the-twin-peaks-of-turo-de-lhome-and-les.html

At the end of October, the mountain hike can be dovetailed nicely with an evening in Girona city to celebrate the Fira de St Narcis. The firework display from the old city ramparts is spectacular.
The reservoir at Santa Fe

Les Agudes from Santa Fe de Montseny.
At Santa Fe, there is a small cafe on the road which serves tea, coffee and cold drinks and slightly lower down towards the river a restaurant in a gothic style large country house that serves full meals and a Menú de dia.

If you wish to learn more about hiking, biking and adventures on the Costa Brava throughout the year, please contact me through our Facebook page, our website below or our email address caldomino@gmail.com
About me… I have lived in Calonge (province of Girona) on the Costa Brava since 2003 after retiring as a pilot from the british Royal Air Force. My passions are hiking, biking, skiing, photography and discovering and sharing the hidden cultural treasures of this beautiful country. My day job entails managing a luxury self-catering rental Villa, Casa Cal Domino, and in my search for new and interesting things to do for my clients whilst they are here on holiday, I have been genuinely overawed by the beauty and diversity of this land. I’m not leaving any time soon. I love it here and I hope to inspire you to come and discover this wonderful country for yourself.

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Wednesday 21 September 2016

Cami de Ronda .- Palamós to Calella de Palafrugell



La Fosca, Castell Sant Esteve de Mar and the Cap Roig hills in the distance
The Cami de Ronda is a coastal path that winds its way along the Catalan coast from Blanes to the French border. In the not too distant past it was simultaneously used by smugglers and police as a  more-or-less rapid way to get from A to B without having to venture too far inland. Today though, it draws people from all over the world to hike the meandering tracks through pine and oak forests, along sandy beaches, via little hidden coves - unreachable by any other means - and over wild rocky vertiginous cliffs with breathtaking views over the Mediterranean sea. Like most of the locals here, we have our favourites which we return to year after year when the weather cools sufficiently in the autumn months. There are walks to suit everyone. Short hikes from one sleepy village to another like the 15 minute hop along the coast for coffee and ice cream in LLafranc after a long lazy lunch in Calella de Palafrugell or the 30 minute walk by the prestigious urbanisation of S'Agaro to the beach at Sant Pol and a choice of half a dozen or so restaurants situated right on the beach and priced to suit everyones pockets. Each walk varies somewhat. There are some that are wild and natural following a track so ethereal that you need to have a good sense of direction and keep your wits about you or risk ending up on a wild boar track deep in the forest to others that are manicured  and well maintained by the local councils; more suitable for families and those with mobility concerns. Some of them are by-and -large flat that follow the wide sandy beaches of Baix Empordá  from Begur to l'Escala and others that will earn you some sore legs in the morning. There are few coastal walks in Catalunya however that tick all the boxes at the same time, but we reckon that the 9km hike to Calella de Palafrugell from the Marina in Palamós is one of them.

You can of course bring a packed lunch with you.... But, with so many excellent restaurants to chose from, it would be churlish not to enjoy a long lazy lunch by the sea and sample the gastronomic delights of Catalunya.

The Calella de Palafrugell walk can be split into three distinct sections should you not be in the mood for a full 9km excursion for the day and for those that don't wish to retrace their steps and walk off the substantial lunch on the way back to Palamós, a well pre-positioned car at Celalla will save them the return 9km. So, put on your walking boots, pack the back pack with some water and change of clothing (maybe a towel if you want to have a swim on the way),  put on some suncream and "nos vamos" !

The approach to La Fosca.
The beach at La Fosca.
At the north end of Fosca beach looking south.
Parking can always be problematic in these little seaside villages as parking space is always physically defined geographically and in small fishing villages where real estate is a premium, car parks do not come top of the list. Most roads are narrow and parking is restricted, so we recommend parking by the marina at Palamós where there is almost always space for the car in Calle Tamardia. Within 200 meters you'll be on the Cami de Ronda and enjoying the spectacular scenery that is so emblematic of the Costa Brava. You can't really go wrong as the path is well worn and although not difficult, people with mobility issues will struggle as it is wild in places and you'll need to be able to clamber over tree roots and rocks every now and then. About 20 minutes later, you'll arrive at the first stop for coffee / breakfast. The beach at La Fosca. Platja Fosca is great for families and small children. The beach at Fosca is particularly shallow which is unusual for the Costa Brava as generally the beaches shelve steeply. Here the water is warm and shallow. There is a lifeguard throughout the summer season, the beach is blue flagged and complete with chirringuitos (beach bars), restaurants, toilets and showers has everything that you need for a day at the beach.  Today though, we pass by towards the north end of the beach and past the ruined Castell Sant Esteve de Mar and onwards towards the fishing huts at S'Alguer.
S'alguer fishing beach huts.
There is no access to these little fishing huts except by foot along the Cami de Ronda and a dirt track for the residents and their cars. Used by fishermen for centuries, they have become daily summer retreats for the lucky few that have come to own them. In the spring, you'll find whole families here diving for sea urchins (erizos de mar) and eating them raw with sea-cooled Cava. Situated in a protected green space, the development options are very limited (thankfully) and this part of the Costa Brava has been totally spared the encroachment of concrete and modern life. An idyllic respite from the hum of electricity, the peace and tranquility of this little cove is the perfect stop for any mid morning snacks / sandwiches that you may have brought along for the trip :)
Plate Castell and the iberian ruins on the hill.
Another 20 minutes or so and you'll arrive at the beach at Platja Castell. Castell is our favourite beach during the summer, slightly wild and away from the towns and villages, it still has life guards and two chirringuitos during the summer months. A local farmer, with the coordination of the Ajuntamiento de Palamós, provides ample parking space for a fee (€5.00 for the day, €3.00 for the afternoon) and for the more adventurous, there is Kayak hire from Kayaking Costa Brava
The ruins of Castell and la foradada cala.
On the headland to the north of the beach, you'll find the neolithic and medieval ruins of the Castle and a few public information boards explaining the history of the site. Access is free and well worth the short walk up to the top of the hill as it affords you spectacular views over the beach and to the north where there is a natural sea arch (La foradada), perfect for exploring by kayak. To the south of Platja Castell, hidden behind a rocky outcrop, there is a small naturist beach for those that wish to go au natural.

The next part of the hike takes you up to the top of the cliffs and through the oak forests for about an hour or so until you start the descent down into Calella de Palafrugell. This part of the hike is the most wild and the path is well trodden but not manicured. You'll need good boots / trainers as it gets slippery in places and sometimes gets very close to the cliff edges so those with young children should keep an eye on them that they don't stray too far ahead.
A perfect day anchored in a little bay.
Well maintained path.
Pine forests of Cap Roig.
You'll need to bring some water with you. Even in the autumn when the temperatures hover around a very pleasant 25 ºC during the day, the shade of the oak and pine forest won't stop you dehydrating.
On the way to Calella de Palafrugell from Platja Castell, there are a number of small sandy beaches which are only accessible by foot along this trail. If you want to find a beach off the beaten track and away from civilisation, then Cala Estreta, Cala Cap de Planes, Cala de Vedell, Cala de Crit and Playa de Golfet are worth a visit. The first of these, Cala Estreta is first and foremost a naturist beach, so please abide by the rules :)

The naturist beach at Cala Estreta.
The hills between Castell and Calella are also home to the botanical gardens at Cap Roig. Work started here in 1927 when Colonel Woeyodsky and Dorothy Webster bought the estate lands at Cap Roig and began to build the Castle and landscaped gardens which consist of a series of terraces that lead down to the coastline each terrace dedicated to it's own style of flora. Work continued until 1974 and now the gardens are open to the public and play host to a series of open air concerts in the summer months. This year (2016) we had Status Quo, Rod Stewart, Santana and the Corrs amongst the international acts and Sopa de Cabra, Alejandro Sanz and Rosario amongst many others from the Spanish / Latin scene.

The Cap Roig hills are also a major attraction for Mountain and Trail bikers.

Calella de Palafrugell.
Once you arrive at the gates of the Cap Roig gardens, another 20 minutes of well maintained coastal paths leading from the beach at El Golfet and you arrive in Calella de Palafrugell. There are dozens of restaurants to chose from in Calella. We recommend Les Voltes  but be advised, we suggest that you reserve a table, especially at the weekends.

If you wish to learn more about hiking, biking and adventures on the Costa Brava throughout the year, please contact me through our Facebook page, our website below or our email address caldomino@gmail.com
About me… I have lived in Calonge (province of Girona) on the Costa Brava since 2003 after retiring as a pilot from the british Royal Air Force. My passions are hiking, biking, skiing, photography and discovering and sharing the hidden cultural treasures of this beautiful country. My day job entails managing a luxury self-catering rental Villa, Casa Cal Domino, and in my search for new and interesting things to do for my clients whilst they are here on holiday, I have been genuinely overawed by the beauty and diversity of this land. I’m not leaving any time soon. I love it here and I hope to inspire you to come and discover this wonderful country for yourself.

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